How does one imagine the vintage? Through a collection of photographs? A somewhat brownish leather diary? So many ways! I took a trek downhill through the memory trails of a retreat hiding amidst the starry skies of Darjeeling and had a rather wonderful conversation with Mrs. Elizabeth J Clarke, the Managing Director of Windamere Heritage Hotel, Darjeeling, West Bengal.

1. Would you want to start off with sharing a little about the history of Windamere?

Here is the history of this name. Ada Villa was the oldest English Boarding House in the Himalayas and opened up in 1841. It would be classed as a “home away from home” in that the Raj types would need what was called a ‘Hill Station’ during the hot, humid days of Calcutta summers.

When our area was in Sikkim, the British found it to be very suitable as a summer retreat, so they persuaded the then Chogyal of Sikkim to lease it to them for 3K INR. They promised the Chogyal a “pied de terre” in the foothills of the Himalayas, but like many other things, they reneged on this promise (means “foot on the ground”). They then annexed the whole area which is now known as The Darjeeling Hills, into what was known then as Bengal. The rest is history and I could go on, but suffice it to say, they loved it so much that they built roads, schools, The Gymkhana Club (the British loved horses!), The Planters Club and Hospital and lovely, lovely cottages. The Tea Planters would come up for a little respite and loll around in the Windamere’s famous Bar. They were known to drink like fishes!

Why the name – wasn’t it just ‘Ada Villa’? It was the latter but in 1939, a group of friends took on the place and registered it as a Private Limited Company. One of their shareholders was a lady by the name of Gertrude Bearpark. She came from Windermere in the English Lake District. Her fellow colleagues loved the name and wanted it to be registered like this. Mrs. Bearpark said that it would be confusing, as Windermere Hotel in Windermere, by Lake Windermere, was very well-known. Being ever inventive, they took the “er” out and replaced it with an “a”. Windamere Hotel was born!

In the old days of Ada Villa, the lady of the house (and her team) looked after these Brits who came up from Calcutta (I am using the old name for this story, but know the current one). Everything was there for them – one old wag was heard to remark: “it is like being in the nursery again, with Nanny looking after me!”)


2. When was the first time that you came here and what was it like?

I was invited to visit back in 1989, but I had always had a passion for the Himalayas and the more mystical side of this area. Having read Masters of the Far East, I was thrilled to visit. I was later asked to help out with business development as a special project, in the 1990’s. What was it like? It was glorious in those days – I thoroughly expected to meet my Master on the mountain slopes, but such was my imagination! I found that the guests were waited on hand & foot and everything was provided. Also, the camaraderie in the Dining Room and the Bar was really lovely. Someone was heard to say back then: “it is just like a good old house party!’’ – this would describe it very well. People came from all over the world, but especially Bengalis from Kolkata. This was their place. They knew that the old State Government of Bengal (later West Bengal) took it on as their own, as the Central Government had Shimla as their own station, so the State needed something similar for themselves. Some described it as an “oasis” – one could feel completely at home, relaxed and joyful here. Going back in time conjures up many feelings in people – there are times when they just need to climb off the spinning wheel of present time and “just be”. Refreshing, wholesome and enervating would be good words. People are also heard to remark that they had no idea that a truly genuine Colonial Hotel like this still existed. They are correct as most “truly genuine’s” has been renovated by now. “Restored” means “back to its original state”.

3. Any specific artefact or room that has a long drawn history (personal or otherwise)?

‘Prince Peter of Greece & Denmark’ (cousin to the present Duke of Edinburgh), frequently stayed with the hotel. You need to know that we have our ‘Royal Suites’ upstairs and this is one of them. It was rumoured that he had a local “love interest”. So, the mind conjures up all kinds of things here! ‘The Chogyal of Sikkim’ is also part of this collection – the King stayed here. He was formally introduced to an American socialite called ‘Hope Cook’, who happened to be here at the time. They fell in love and married. Hence an American queen on the Sikkim throne! The Princess of Siam (the old name for Thailand) was also known to frequently visit. We have paintings on the walls depicting princes and princesses from this country. Dignitaries from Thailand sometimes cry when they are shown the room as we have writings on the wall from the last two princesses - that is, when it was Siam and now Thailand. The last Royal Suite is ‘The Begum Aga Khan’. Downstairs is a very interesting suite. It is called: ‘Alexandre David Neal’ – she was a most interesting lady, in that she felt a great connection to Tibet. In those days, most ladies just married, had the family, and managed the house, but this particular woman dressed up as a monk and managed to get into what was the “forbidden land of Tibet”. She was French, so our French guests are known to wander around and savour their old history. It means something to them.

In what is now known as ‘The Tenduf-La Suites’, a Christian mystic called ‘Thomas Merton’ stayed with us. He was a prolific writer and his books are well-known. He belonged to an Order where the monks did not speak, but his mentor did eventually break this rule and suggested that Merton travel to Thailand for a very special conference. So, Merton came to India, met HH the 14th Dalai Lama and eventually stayed with us. He then went on to Thailand and passed away there. What a story?

Lastly, the various Governors of Bengal and then West Bengal, had their own “flat” in our ‘Annexe’. This is where I now stay today. To bring the place completely up to date, ‘Barfi’ was shot here at Windamere, with Ranbir Kapoor and Priyanka Chopra. Shah Rukh Khan also paid us a visit. The town went completely mad! Earlier this year, Sir Kenneth Branagh and Sir Derek Jacobi stayed. What a thrill that was! They are extremely well known in the western world. We have hosted kings and queens throughout our history.

4. It is said that a place this old marks traces of breathings old, does it ever feel like that? Or does it still feel new?

It never ever feels “new”. Yes, it “breathes old” in every brick and plank of the place. It is suitably set on what is a very vibrational hill. The whole of the Himalayan range is known to be one of the world’s energy vortices, so our Observatory Hill is part of that. Personally, I feel that I am just the caretaker, looking after the place for all of those who have gone before me and woe on me if I get it wrong!

5. Tell us one story that the Windamere Bar tells of the soldiers of the past?

Well, believe it or not, I was not born then! However, that being said, the change of name to ‘Windamere Hotel’ was put into motion in 1939, just as the war had started. Staying at Windamere, they found it to be of terrific respite and relaxation. Mixing with the Tea Planters, they just loved their pink gins (gin, tonic and Angostura bitters). Both soldiers and local planters would have drunk until they probably passed out. Well, they didn’t have far to travel as their rooms were close by. The Bar was a wonderful meeting place for all types during WW11. They most probably started out at the local Gymkhana Club and then came up to the Windamere Bar and treated it as their private club.


6. Would you want to share a personal anecdote, a favourite memory, a favourite song, a favourite view? Anything personal related to Windamere?

One would be singing in our ‘Bearpark’s Parlour’ during the Christmas and New Year season. By the way, there were many shows in our Dining Room in the old days. Another would be seeing the sun encircled by a halo - local man said that this was a portent. Sure enough, within the hour a very well-known Tibetan Rinpoche appeared and wanted to stay with us. Lastly, just this year, when the lockdowns started, I would go out of the Dining Room and look up at the stars (which I love to do). There was a UFO (or spaceship) sitting there in the sky. I went through all kinds of reasons: a large star? No. An aircraft? No, they do not come up to our level. The apparition stayed with us for around two weeks and then moved on. I felt that given the uncertain times we are presently experiencing, they had come to see how we were doing. I was sorry when it left.

What are your ideas on renovation and revamping such a heritage site furthermore, on preservation then?

We have never renovated the hotel – it would then be classed as “pseudo”. We have restored. I have an abhorrence of “want to be’s” in buildings. We are truly a Colonial Hotel of the Himalayas, through and through.

Finally, do you long for it?

I long for the old days (‘80’s/’90’s), but that said, visitors who come to see us, see the place and area through their own eyes and this is all that matters for me. Their enjoyment still gives me a whole measure of satisfaction and pleasure so, in a way, I long for the feedback from our valued guests. That is all I need.